Glenn Exum, a mountain climber who conquered the summits of the Alps and the Rockies and shared his experience with hundreds of others through his guide service, died on March 17 at his home. the park rangers who investigated his death believe that the water knot of his personal anchor, a tied loop of webbing, failed, and Falk fell from Thank you for the work and excellent details provided in this report Mr. Thuermer. To anybody whose life depends on rope work, CHECK YOUR KNOT! accounts or history behind an article. All Exum operations were cancelled for Sunday in honor of Falk, the News & Guide reports. That will happen annually. Park rangers believe that during a rappel procedure the knot in a loop . Darkness came and some of the guides became a little worried. An Exum mountain guide perished Saturday in Grand Teton National Park while leading a group of clients down the Grand Teton after completing a successful summit bid. A teacher, he was known for the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling College in Vermont. In the case of a ski patroller killed in a fall, we did come out with some rules for wearing head protection., Falk himself was a beloved person and one of the best guides in this country, Patridge said. Two of my buddies and I did snow school with Exum on 6/30/13. "As far as we can see, he was not working for Exum," Turner said of the excursion. Change your default forum handle here! If the knot (bend) is loosely tied and not backed up, it can fail the FIRST time it is loaded. 25% Off Outside+. Fish and Wildlife post, Speaker Sommers right to hold back bad Freedom Caucus bills, Crossover voting bill goes to governors desk, Proudly powered by Newspack by Automattic. However rockfall from above or a falling cliet could take down an untied guide. Angus M. Thuermer Jr. is the natural resources reporter for WyoFile. He went off climbing by himself.. One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. The guide service agreed to review annually the personal safety gear that climbing guides use and document that inspection, according to recently released OSHA documents. Glen Exum first climbed the Grand Teton with Paul Petzoldt in 1929. Now called the Exum Mountain Guide Service, it has the concession from the National Park Service for climbing instruction in the park. Cyndi Hargis, one of Exum's owners, told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four guides with clients up on the Grand. No political attacks. and memories of Gary, see the Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure Facebook According to new reports, Recovery of Gardners body, accomplished with a helicopter, was delayed when a rain shower moved through the Tetons early Sunday morning. We will update this story as new information becomes available. Promotional Rates were found for your code. He has a wife and two young sons. But OSHA standards dont eliminate all risk. We all loved him because he made us feel so loved and accepted. The exact circumstances of Gardner's fall may remain a mystery, Turner said. Exum President Nat Patridge stated in a press release, Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure, Tenzing Norgay Biography to Become Netflix Film, Winners of the 2021 GRIT&ROCK First Ascent Grants Announced, Interview: Sean Villanueva ODriscoll on the Solo First Ascent of The Moonwalk, a.k.a. Please log in, or sign up for a new account and purchase a subscription to read or post comments. Choose wisely! Falk was attached to the anchor slings with a four-foot tether and probably leaning out when his knot failed, rangers believe. Keep it clean, civil and on topic. But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short. Be proactive. Create a password that only you will remember. We do not know, and will never know, the cause of his death. At 26, McGlashon is Exum's youngest ski guide and one of only two guides under 30 (the other is 29). It was perfect weather. But light from a set of headlamps appeared on the descent route from the peak and those in the camp figured it was Gardner, perhaps aiding a late party down. appreciated. "It was not something that was over and above him in any way," Turner said. Climbing guide services and other businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. They had a magical The Teton Guiding community is devastated with this loss. Our programs range from a fun day on the rocks for the whole family, to serious alpine adventures. Recreation and outdoor businesses in Teton County and other resort areas present unconventional challenges when it comes to ensuring safe workplaces, John Ysebaert said. Turner said it was a natural thing to do and that Gardner had guided the route and climbed it before, alone and without a rope. Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device. Recreation and outdoor businesses in Teton County and other resort areas present unconventional challenges when it comes to ensuring safe workplaces, John Ysebaert said. Guides prepared dinner before 5 p.m. About that time, Gardner announced he was going to solo the Lower Exum Ridge route on the Grand, a somewhat common practice among guides, depending on their ability. At the time of his fall, Falk was safeguarding the clients with a belay rope as they rappelled off a roughly 120-foot drop. The couple met in Nevada in 2007 while Falk was in the final stages of his guide training. God bless his family and co-workers, this is a terrible loss for the community and I offer my sincere condolences. Gary was always trying to figure out what worked, Kate Coordinates. It is something AMGA has become aware of largely as a result of this tragic accident, he said. Please enter your public display name and a secure password. He had been working for Exum Mountain Guides for 12 years, according to a statement. Park rangers on the valley floor also organized for a response, summoning a helicopter. What was revealed was we need to improve on our documentation. Programs include backcountry skiing, split-snowboarding, rock climbing, ice climbing, avalanche instruction, summer and winter mountaineering, trekking (hiking and snowshoeing) and canyoneering skills. & An Exum Mountain Guide died Saturday morning on the descent from the Grand Teton. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of environmental news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Wyoming news. About the Jackson Hole News and Guide Staff. Fred Beckey and the Improbable Ascent of Mount Waddington. An Exum mountain guide fell to his death while guiding a group of clients down from a successful summit of the 13,770 Grand Teton in Wyoming yesterday. You have permission to edit this article. Teton Climbing Guide is a website developed by Brian Smith, an IFMGA/AMGA Certified American Mountain Guide and Lead Guide for Exum Mountain Guides.Brian is based out of Jackson Hole, Wyoming and has been guiding rock, alpine, ski, and ice climbing trips for Exum Mountain Guides for twelve years, primarily in Grand Teton National Park and the Wind River Wilderness. When our first child was They were bound for the 11,650-foot-high Lower Saddle on the Grand and made that overnight camp relatively early Saturday afternoon. He was immediately projected outward and plunged to his death, the park report said. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of inspiring stories about the faces and places of Jackson Hole from theJackson Hole News&Guide. "He was a happy man," Johnstone said. A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. ", The guide was beyond competent, Turner said, calling him a "beautiful climber.". He was also a long-time climbing instructor and mountain guide with Exum Mountain Guides in the Grand Tetons . Glen Exum first climbed the Grand Teton with Paul Petzoldt in 1929. The Falk family split their time between Ouray, Colorado and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. During the summer season Exum offers rock climbing instruction and guided mountain climbing. Grand Teton climbing rangers examined Falks gear after they retrieved his body and found the 98-inch webbing still attached to the guides harness with a hitch knot. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using., That will happen annually. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. A Warner Bros. Partner of USATODAY Lifestyle/Action Sports, Skiing the Steepest Lines in the Lyngen Alps The White Giant, Brace Yourself For the Hot Dog Hans III Premiere, BEEFS T.V.s Biggest Wipeouts of Winter 2023, TGR Tested: Fischers Ranger 108 Is A Confidence-Inspiring Dai, Claire McPherson Speaks About her First Win At Kings and Queens, Grand Teton, Teton County, WY, United States, UPDATED: Full Athlete List for Kings and Queens of Corbets 2023, The Les Gets Bike Park Reopened For MTBs, American Freeskier Kyle Smaine Killed in Avalanche in Japan. Subscribe to our free newsletter and get the latest stories straight to your inbox every Tuesday. | Darkness came and some of the guides became a little worried. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of healthcare and wellness news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Pretty sure Gary was just using the webbing to support body weight. page set up by others. They were coming back down the Wyoming peak when he . Gary Falk, 42, had been leading climbers to Grand Teton summit, Falk was called "a diligent, professional guide". We certainly will be looking at what happened here and working to determine if we need to share the information with guide services around the country about standards like this.. He was one of the most smiley guys you ever saw.. Professional climbers would find the moves routine rather than exhausting, albeit without room for error for a solo climber. They believed that clients should learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the summits of the high Teton peaks. The device had been attached to the end of the rope by a client who had already rappelled. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of town and county government news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Some just hold on to the belay rope. {{#message}}{{{message}}}{{/message}}{{^message}}Your submission failed. He was immediately projected outward and fell to his death, the park report said. Choose wisely! We have no idea why he fell, Turner said. This is the name that will be used to identify you within the system. comment to let us know of abusive posts. Use the Report link on each anything. The guide service has grown since those early years, but we still hire guides who are able to teach and inspire others. OSHA cited Exum for violating a standard saying that when a worker supplies his or her own safety gear, the employer shall be responsible to assure its adequacy, including proper maintenance. Documents outlining settlement of the citations said the employer has not conducted an assessment of the employees provided protective equipment to ensure its adequacy, including proper maintenance.. We rely on readers like you to keep our reporters in the field unearthing the stories that matter to you. As a result of the OSHA investigation, they have implemented inspection regimen for that and [agreed] to document that and have a log book and to train on inspection procedures, Ysebaert said. Indeed, the word love was common in his speech, the idea intimate to his mind, its products present in his actions. Ed. According to Debbie Germann, Grand Teton National Park spokeswoman, as quoted in the Jackson Hole Daily, the accident occurred the morning of Saturday, July 23. He said it was a privilege to climb the peak. After the chaperone rappelled, Falk planned to retrieve one of the devices with the belay rope. Exum climbing guide George Gardner fell to his death on the evening of July 19, 2008 while soloing the Lower Exum Ridge (5.7). As the oldest guide service in North America, Exum has guided in the Tetons for over 90 years. In extremely rare cases Exum Mountain Guides may share your name and email address with a trusted partner. Backing the knot up ensures that there is sufficient tail. You have permission to edit this article. Cyndi Hargis, one of Exums owners, Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. Hailing from Ouray, Colorado, the deceased was a trusted colleague and family man, leaving behind a wife and two little boys. Teewinot is a book about a mountain range, its austere temper, its . Among the clues investigators used in their probe were burn-like marks on the tether webbing, possibly indicating stress from the friction of a knot pulling loose. | Please avoid obscene, vulgar, lewd, Recovery of Gardner's body, accomplished with a helicopter, was delayed when a rain shower moved through the Tetons early Sunday morning. In recent years Wyoming OSHA has investigated the death of an ecology field worker slain and eaten by a bear or bears, a ski patroller killed in an avalanche and another patroller who died in a fall. The One Subscription to Fuel All Your Adventures. Building on his passion for the outdoors, he climbed extensively in both the Rockies and the Alps. Says hailing from Ouray Colorado is incorrect, he hails from Chicago. Exum Mountain Guides, a concessioner with Grand Teton National Park, has been guiding in the park for over 80 years. But water knots inspected in June may go through hundreds of loading/unloading cycles by the end of the summer guiding season in September. Exum Mountain Guides president and co-owner called Falk a diligent guide, always the consummate professional.. They believed that clients should learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the summits of the high Teton peaks. Workers can supply their own gear if it meets those standards, and it is natural for climbing guides to do so. Sign up to receive a monthly e-newsletter with a selection of photography and video from theJackson Hole News&Guide. He was not guiding clients at the time of the fall, said Jack Turner, Exum Mountain Guides president. Investigators may never know for sure why 58-year old George Gardner, a climbing guide with nearly three decades of experience, fell to his death while free soloing a route in Grand Teton National Park that was well within his capabilities. Your purchase was successful, and you are now logged in. Guides and clients went to sleep as the headlamp party descended. Towering above Jackson Hole at 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton is one of North Americas most famous and coveted summits. By one account, he made more trips up the Grand for Exum last year than any other guide. Today, skilled guides train clients of all ages to experience the mountains. "He was one of the most smiley guys you ever saw.". Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyomings Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Its not practical for [Exum] to inspect it each and every time., Businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using. Thank You. Gardner was a veteran of the Himalaya and South America and had climbed across North America. Then, rather than rappelling down on their own, they would often be lowered. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years of experience in Wyoming. "What happened we don't and will never know," he said. Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. His path had required jumping a chasm, which later climbers learned how to climb around. You knew it would be a success, Harlan says, adding, Safety was of utmost Exum chief Nat Partridge conveyed that the loss was a huge tragedy, and that Falks passing will deeply impact the whole climbing/guiding community. You're as obsessed with the facts as we are! No personal attacks. Gary had the ability to see and bring out the best in each individual, Kate, wrote on a GoFundMe Make a donation today and help us keep digging. He was a happy man, Johnstone said. Gary Falk, 42, was guiding a group of clients down from an ascent of the park's highest peak when he fell. the Reverse Fitz Traverse, Killer Mountain: Death and Rescue on Nanga Parbat in Winter. Glen Exum was working with Paul Petzoldt in 1931 when he pioneered the second known route up the Grand Teton. The guide was highly certified, highly trained in the tying of that knot, Ysebaert said. Wyomings soon-to-drop shed hunting rules set new precedent, Wyoming trans athlete ban advances to House floor, Wyo ecologist-turned-activist tapped for top U.S. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk.. the ledge. To support or donate to Kate and the boys, see the GoFundMe link with more information here. Have your partner check it too. Mary Harlan, a close family friend and part-time instructor with Aspen Alpine Guides, recalls Falks adventurous, child-like spirit. [E]vidence and witness statements suggest that he was using a 98 inch section of 9/16 [inch] blue tubular webbing tied in a loop with a water knot to tether himself to the anchor and that the knot came untied during his attempts to free the stuck rappel device, the park report said. "He went off climbing by himself.". Required fields are marked *. In 2 days of group instruction, our climbers are taught all of the skills necessary to fully participate during their 2-day Grand Teton climb. In the case of the worker, by a bear or bears, the employer had to develop a. and make it available to other companies. 2017 All rights reserved. Plan to post in the forums? Dont. (Grand Teton National Park), When he fell, Gary Falk had just successfully guided his group of three students from a program called City Kids, and their chaperone, to the top of the mountain, according to Grand Teton National Parks. They shouldnt be. On the memorial GoFundMe page, Kate wrote: In the eight years I knew him, Gary strived for that balance of lifethat perfect concoction of family, work, friendships, and personal pursuits. Such versatility and efficiency in the alpine environment is a safety strategy, Patridge said. Those methods, Mr. Williamson said, essentially involved tying a rope around the climbers and pulling them up the mountain whenever they encountered difficulty. Please log in, or sign up for a new account and purchase a subscription to read or post comments. allowed. That signaled to us something was wrong, Turner said. With ski fatalities, bear maulings and climbing falls, Teton County is unique in many of those circumstances., Federal rules, which Wyoming enforces, require employers to protect their employees according to certain standards. *Individual commenters are limited to three comments per story, including replies. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. When the professionals cant keep you safe doing the basics, maybe theres a problem that people need to stop and evaluate. 1/2 webbing and 9/16 are 2 different animals. Stay up to date with the latest Exum adventures and news by following us on your favorite social media sites. racist or sexually-oriented language. As the oldest guide service in North America, Exum has guided in the Tetons for over 90 years. Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device. Kings and Queens 2023 returns to Corbets Couloir this February. Rules can be specific regarding scaffoldings, hard hats and safety harnesses. Glenn Exum was born in Topaz, Idaho, on June 24, 1911. *Outside memberships are billed annually. "He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be," Santelices said, "especially with kids.". Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of arts and entertainment headlines from the Scene section ofJackson Hole News&Guide. On July 23rd, 2016 Gary Falk fell to his death during the down climb of a guided trip on the Grand Teton. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. and all webbing is really only about 1/8 thick (at the least the tubular) regardless of width. Jeb Williamson, a former president of the American Alpine Club, said Mr. Exum had studied European methods of guiding climbers in the 1930's and had worked to change them. OSHA agreed that Falk knew how to properly tie a water knot. The Man Who Matched Our Mountains. Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. Fellow guides gave Gardner's departure little thought, but Christian Santelices heard the sound of falling rocks that evening. Thanks for your support of WyoFile! Glenn Exum, a mountain climber who conquered the summits of the Alps and the Rockies and shared his experience with hundreds of others through his guide service, died on March 17 at his home in Littleton, Colo. I always thought of Gary as a rock, a constant. A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. WyoFile aims to provide you with the tools to make informed decisions by producing independent, unbiased reporting that is free and accessible to all. Rangers believe Falk was leaning out to check his progress when the tether failed. Your account has been registered, and you are now logged in. told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. They were bound for the 11,650-foot-high Lower Saddle on the Grand and made that overnight camp relatively early Saturday afternoon. Sign up to receive a daily e-newsletter with a selection of local, state and regional news headlines from theJackson Hole Daily. See the article in its original context from. In the case of the worker killed and eaten by a bear or bears, the employer had to develop a wilderness safety plan and make it available to other companies. Most guided climbers reach the summit via the regular Exum Ridge, a route that avoids the 5.7 difficulties of the lower ridge. Keep it clean. Arnold S. Houston, TX. The probe was prompted by the death of guide Gary Falk. Your e-mail address will be used to confirm your account. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of town and county government news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. news and struggling to comprehend the situation.. The webbing was part of his personal gear and not supplied by Exum. She is also one of only five female guides at North America's oldest guiding company. While preparing a rappel station 1 listed. Again, tests show that a water knot specifically one made on 9/16-inch webbing like what Falk was using must be tied with long tails and repeatedly checked. Fellow guides gave Gardners departure little thought, but Christian Santelices heard the sound of falling rocks that evening. But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short. But its two ends were not tied together as they needed to be to form a tether. comment to let us know of abusive posts. Concessioner with Grand Teton share your name and a secure password & guide in extremely cases. A falling cliet could take down an untied guide Ascent of Mount Waddington do so rappel procedure the in... My buddies and I did snow School with Exum on 6/30/13 CHECK your!! Peak when he Hole, Wyoming of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole at 13,770 feet the... 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